Yi-wen's Hobbies > Travel > Orchid Island 

台灣台東縣蘭嶼鄉

Visiting Lanyu is my most unforgettable trip. I was there with my college buddies before coming to America.  We were introduced to a snorkeling coach.  Before I met him, I had such a stereotype about a snorkeling coach that he should wear red pants and be big and somewhat rude. Surprisingly enough, this coach was a gentleman and professionist, although showing up in red pants as I had expected.  All right, fine with me.

我最難忘的旅行經驗是退伍後赴美前和大學時代的一夥同學到蘭嶼.。那次去之前,曾在森林小學任教的表姐介紹了一位浮潛教練,本來我以為教練大概就是穿著紅色泳褲,有點胖也有點粗曠的那個樣子吧,沒想到見了面卻發現這個教練雖然不出我所料是穿著紅色的泳褲,但是人挺斯文,第一印象是滿專業的感覺。好,雖然你穿著紅色的泳褲,沒關係,我也是。

We really had a lot of fun snorkeling.  Seeing so many tropical fish swimming around the coral reef, I almost wished that I could stay there forever.  Wearing the red pants, I became so confident about myself as if I worked for the discovery channel.  My friends in other colors of pants were also enjoying themselves very much.

那次的浮潛真是過癮,看到了好多好多彩色的熱帶魚在珊瑚邊游來游去,我簡直覺得不要來美國唸書了,要是每天在這裡游泳多好,穿上這紅色的泳褲,我好有自信,彷彿成了 discovery channel 的工作人員,穿其他顏色泳褲的同學們也都是意猶未盡。

 "All banquets have to end." (All meals have to be paid, likewise.) Each of us paid 500 Taiwanese dollars (about US$15) and was going to leave.  At that moment, the gentleman coach suddenly spoke -- he invited us to a coffee house, the only one on the island, to watch a slide presentation.  We actually hesitated a bit but, after some careful thoughts, we determined that the coach was too friendly to likely be a multi-layer marketing salesman that would force you buy toothpastes. Therefore, how could we, we as alumni of National Taiwan University, be as anal as turtle hairs and upset him?  We made an appointment with the coach without further ado.

天下沒有不散的筵席 (也沒有白吃的午餐)。我們每個人各交了五百塊,本來就要依依不捨地離開了,沒想到,沒想到,這時候教練說話了~~~~    原來是邀請我們當晚去一間也是蘭嶼唯一的一間咖啡屋看他拍的幻燈片。我們其實納悶了一會兒,後來經過審慎的評估,認為教練人這麼好,大概不會是做直銷的,我們身為台大畢業的,怎麼可以讓人家覺得我們很龜毛ㄋ? 於是就爽快地答應了。

 That was a clear night. We saw the Milky Way.

那晚天晴,看見了銀河。

 The slides he showed turned out to be really touching. We realized that the coach has worked independently as a ethnologist at Lanyu for 20 years.  By photography, he documented the nature, the customs, and the cultural heritage of Lanyu and her people.  We learned to appreciate the ceasing beauty of Lanyu and feel the same frustration the islanders have against the invading Chinese culture.  When we finally said goodbye to the coach, our minds were hyper but our hearts were low.

那晚的幻燈片,才讓我們真正和教練相遇原來教練先生二十年來從事蘭嶼的文化工作,他以攝影的方式記錄蘭嶼的自然生態與風俗傳統與屬於蘭嶼的種種故事;透過這些影像與教練的講解,我們認識到蘭嶼漸漸逝去的美,也體會到蘭嶼文化面對漢文化的強勢入侵的倉皇和無奈。那晚終於和教練依依不捨的道別了,知性上覺得好充實,心裡卻是沉重。

We switched back to our tourist status the next day and took several photos just as a proof of being there.  The islander who took the group photos for us questioned me whatsoever the fun we had at Lanyu.  "Philippines is much more fun -- I am talking about the women there, folks," He said.  He continued to tell me that the aboriginal Philippinos share the same language and culture as the Lanyu islanders.  "You know what? We should belong to the Philippines!" He emphasized with intense agitation.

隔天睡飽了我們大夥兒又回到了觀光客的身分,草草的拍了幾張團體照巴不得證明來過。我向幫我們拍照的路人蘭嶼原住民說謝謝時,他反問我蘭嶼有什麼好玩,菲律賓才好玩,菲律賓的女人很棒如此云云。他並且告訴我菲律賓的原住民和他們的確是語言及生活文化都相通,講到激動處他甚至強調說 : "其實,我們應該屬於菲律賓的啦"

My dear amigo, go ahead with my blessings if you all want to get reunited with the Republic of Philippines! We will not seek a non-peaceful solution to the Lanyu separationism!  

我親愛的蘭嶼同胞,如果你們要和菲律賓統一,就放心的去吧! 我們一定不會以武力解決蘭獨問題的!

We were all tanned when we left.  I hereby devote this sentimental poem to my college buddies,

離開蘭嶼時大家皮膚都曬黑了,帶著一絲感傷回首向來蕭瑟處,我作了一首五言絕句獻給我親愛的夥伴

 Xuyu Achuan Liu Yiwen, Zhuuyuan Qiyu Linshoude. Azhu Abao Ye Yuqi, Huang Yucheng Qi Motuoche.

許昱阿川劉意紊,祝原其羽林守德。阿珠阿寶葉育祺,黃鈺程騎摩托車。

啊,真歹勢,更正: 這不是五言絕句,這是七言絕句。再會啦 ! 蘭嶼!


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